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AstroBox Parts List
A few people have asked for a parts list so they can build their own AstroBox. So, I thought I'd put together a page for quick reference.
First, a bit of clarification on the purpose of these boxes. My AstroBoxes are meant to reduce clutter by condensing all the usual plugs, cables, hubs, power strips, and other connectors into one discreet, easily transportable box; one for use with AC power and one for use with DC power. They put all of my needed power and data connections in one place, which allows me to run just two cables from my scope: 1 USB and 1 AC power (just 1 cable in the case of the DC AstroBox since the battery stays near the box and scope).
The AC AstroBox requires household current and a regular AC outlet. The DC AstroBox requires a 12v battery and connects to it with a Molex connector. A single box could be built to utlitize AC or DC power depending on what's available but the box would become rather complex, large, and heavy. I wanted to keep the box relatively compact so I built two. Depending on where I'm headed, I just grab one box or the other.
I do not sell these boxes. I made them for personal use. The purpose of this page is just to give others ideas if they wish to build something similar.
- There are a few things to keep in mind before taking on this project:
- In many cases, my selection of parts is based on my particular requirements and preferences. In other cases, it's a matter of availability. The list below isn't meant to suggest that you need to get exactly these parts.
- The number and combination of ports/connectors can be varied. In other words, you don't need to have exactly 4 serial ports, 3 AC outlets, etc. Simply evaluate your particular setup and determine what types and how many of each connector you'll need.
- This isn't the cheapest of projects nor is it the quickest. Because some of the parts are custom or specialized, the prices can be a little steep.
- Since you're cutting through steel, some specific tools are needed. If you don't own these tools, it probably won't be worth buying them just for this project. Some of them are expensive. If you decide to use a box of different material (like plastic) you might also want to consider different connectors. Some of the connectors listed below are meant to mount to surfaces of a certain thickness or into a particular shape hole. A plastic box may not be a good idea because some of the connectors snap into place. Repeated plugging and unplugging of cords may deform the plastic hole over time, causing the connectors to come loose.
- Parts Common to Both Boxes
- 1 - Craftsman 16" toolbox (or similar)
Source: K-Mart, Sears, OSH, etc.
- 3 - 12v DC receptacles
Source: McMaster-Carr, part #6860K2 (other types and sources are available)
- 3 - 115v AC receptacles (panel mount, straight blade)
Source: McMaster-Carr, part #7168K1 (other types and sources are available)
- 1 - AC power strip
Source: Just about any electronics or box store, Target, Walmart, etc.
- 2 - USB hub
Source: Just about any computer or electronics store.
- 4 - Panel mount serial DB9 connectors (male)
4 - Panel mount USB connectors (type A, female)
1 - Panel mount USB connector (type B, male)
1 - Custom plate for DB9 and USB connectors
Source: DataPro.net
- 4 - Serial to USB adapters1
Source: Just about any computer or electronics store, but I'd recommend these FTDI-based adapters.
- 1 - Panel mount LED light
Source: Radio Shack, Fry's, or many other electronics stores (check the rated voltage, a regulator may be needed)
- Parts - Specific to the AC AstroBox
- 1 - Compact DC power supply
Source: eBay or most larger electronics retailers (I used a Cosel 12v/13A (max) with variable voltage control)
- 1 - Panel mount AC connector
Source: My dad happened to already have a perfect one so, unfortunately, I don't have a source for this part.
- Parts - Specific to the DC AstroBox
- 1 - Inverter2
Source: Almost any electronics store, box store, Radio Shack, Fry's, etc.
- 1 - DC-to-DC voltage converter3
Source: Best Buy, Radio Shack, Fry's, numerous online sources such as Powerstream and BixNet.
- 1 - Molex power connector
Source: Radio Shack, Fry's, most electronics parts stores.
- Other Parts
- Terminal strip to centralize some of the wiring connections
- Ring- and fork-type wire connectors
- Rocker switch with red LED
- Panel mount and in-line fuse holders
- 5.5mm OD/2.5mm ID power connectors
- Receptable covers
- 12-gauge wire (all primary power distribution connections should be 12-gauge, lower current connections can use smaller gauge)
- Tools
- Electric drill and various drill bits
- Hole die/punch (3/4", 1 1/8")
- Manual sheet metal nibbler (capable of nibbling steel)
- Metal file (medium and fine, depending on how detailed you want to get)
- Wire strippers
- Wire connector crimper
- Heat shrink wrap of various sizes
- Heat gun
- Soldering iron and solder
- Screwdrivers (flat and Philips)
- Wire ties
- What else will you need?
- A relatively large, flat work surface
- Approximately 1.5 to 2 full days
- Patience (the hole-cutting and filing and soldering can get tedious)
- Decent soldering skills
- Moderate level of experience with basic electronics
- Help4
1 There are many, many, many serial to USB adapters out there but some work better than others, depending on the chipset and the drivers. I've encountered a few that don't work with the Optec TCF-S and I know some don't work with Windows Vista® and/or 64-bit versions of Windows. I've had the best luck with the FTDI-based adapters. They work fine with the Gemini, AP GTO-CP3, Robofocus, and TCF-S under Windows XP, Vista x64, and Windows 7 x64.
2 Inverters are abundant but there were some specific requirements I wanted to follow: (1) Post-type battery connectors so it can easily be swapped out if needed. (2) On/off switch so I can save a few milli-amps if the inverter isn't needed. (3) A low, no-load current draw (0.25 amps or less). And, (4) Fan-less operation to keep noise down. The Coleman 400W inverter I'm currently using works well and meets these requirements except for the fan-less operation... so, I'm keeping an eye out for a similar inverter but with no fan (or at least a variable fan that only comes on when needed).
3 DC-to-DC voltage converters are most easily found in the form of universal laptop power supplies for cars. Most of them come with multiple tips (although they're not needed if you hardwire the output voltage to a socket, like I did) and allow different voltage selections. Not everyone will need one of these. I wanted one specifically to power just the mount. This allows me to boost the voltage to the mount, which typically results in better performance on some mounts (like Gemini-based mounts and Astro-Physics mounts). I'm currently using this one at the 15v setting.
4 I'm fortunate in that my father is interested in astronomy, knows electronics inside and out, and has excellent soldering skills. I developed the basic idea, acquired the parts, and cut all of the holes in the box. He designed the schematics, did all of the wiring and soldering, and provided random parts that I forgot about. We make a good team.
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