« RETURN TO NEWS & REVIEWS PAGE   
CaliforniaStars.net
Articles

AstroBox Parts List
« RETURN TO NEWS & REVIEWS PAGE

A few people have asked for a parts list so they can build their own AstroBox. So, I thought I'd put together a page for quick reference.

First, a bit of clarification on the purpose of these boxes. My AstroBoxes are meant to reduce clutter by condensing all the usual plugs, cables, hubs, power strips, and other connectors into two discreet, easily transportable boxes; one for use with AC power and one for use with DC power. They put all of my needed power and data connections in one place, which allows me to run just two cables from my scope: 1 USB and 1 AC power (1 cable in the case of the DC AstroBox since the battery stays near the scope).

The AC AstroBox requires household current and a regular AC outlet. The DC AstroBox requires a 12v battery and connects to it with a Molex connector. A box could be built to utlitize both AC and DC power but it would get rather complex and large. I wanted to keep the overall size relatively small and so built two separate boxes. Depending on where I'm headed, I just grab one box or the other.

I do not sell these boxes. I made them for personal use. The purpose of this page is just to give others ideas if they wish to build something similar.

There are a few things to keep in mind before taking on this project:
  • In most cases, my selection of parts is a simple matter of personal preference. In other cases, it's a matter of availability. The list below isn't meant to suggest that you need to get exactly these parts. Take a moment to figure out what connectors you want then browse the Internet for different types of connectors, different types of mountings, etc.
  • The number and combination of ports/connectors can be varied. In other words, you don't need to have exactly 4 serial ports, 3 AC outlets, etc. Simply evaluate your particular set up and determine what types and how many of each connector you'll need.
  • This isn't the cheapest of projects nor is it the quickest. Because some of the parts are custom or specialized, the prices can be a little steep.
  • Since you're cutting through steel, some specific tools are needed. If you don't own these tools, it probably won't be worth buying them just for this project. Some of them are expensive. If you decide to use a box of different material you might also want to consider different parts. Some of the parts listed below are meant to mount to surfaces of a certain thickness or into a particular shape hole. Plastic may not be good because some of the parts snap in and repeated plugging and unplugging of cords may deform the plastic over time, causing the parts to come loose.
Parts Common to Both Boxes
  • 1 - Craftsman 16" toolbox (or similar)
    Source: K-Mart, Sears, OSH, etc.

  • 3 - 12v DC receptacles
    Source: McMaster-Carr, part #6860K2 (other types and sources are available)

  • 3 - 115v AC receptacles (panel mount, straight blade)
    Source: McMaster-Carr, part #7168K1 (other types and sources are available)

  • 1 - AC power strip
    Source: Just about any electronics or box store, Target, Walmart, etc.

  • 2 - Belkin "Tetrahub" USB hubs1
    Source: Amazon, eBay, or various online retailers

  • 4 - Panel mount serial DB9 connectors (male)
    4 - Panel mount USB connectors (type A, female)
    1 - Panel mount USB connector (type B, male)
    1 - Custom plate for DB9 and USB connectors
    Source: DataPro.net

  • 4 - Serial to USB adapters2
    Source: Amazon, Best Buy, eBay, or various online retailers (cablemax.com, cablestogo.com, frys.com)

  • 1 - Panel mount LED light
    Source: Radio Shack, Fry's, or many other electronics stores (check the rated voltage, a regulator may be needed)

Parts - Specific to the AC AstroBox
  • 1 - DC power supply
    Source: eBay or most larger electronics retailers (I used a Cosel 12v/13A (max) with variable voltage control)

  • 1 - Panel mount AC connector
    Source: My dad happened to already have a perfect one so, unfortunately, I don't have a source for this part.

Parts - Specific to the DC AstroBox
  • 1 - Inverter3
    Source: Almost any electronics store, box store, Radio Shack, Fry's, etc.

  • 1 - DC-to-DC voltage converter4
    Source: Best Buy, Radio Shack, Fry's, numerous online sources such as Powerstream and BixNet.

  • 1 - Molex power connector
    Source: Radio Shack, Fry's, most electronics stores.

Other Parts
  • Terminal strip to centralize some of the wiring connections
  • Ring- and fork-type wire connectors
  • Rocker switch with red LED
  • Panel mount and in-line fuse holders
  • 5.5mm OD/2.5mm ID power connectors
  • Receptable covers
  • 12-gauge wire (all primary power distribution connections should be 12-gauge, lower current connections can use smaller gauge)
Tools
  • Electric drill and various drill bits
  • Hole die/punch (3/4", 1 1/8")
  • Manual sheet metal nibbler (capable of nibbling steel)
  • Metal file (medium and fine, depending on how detailed you want to get)
  • Wire strippers
  • Wire connector crimper
  • Heat shrink wrap of various sizes
  • Heat gun
  • Soldering iron and solder
  • Screwdrivers (flat and Philips)
  • Wire ties
What else will you need?
  • A relatively large, flat work surface
  • Approximately 1.5 to 2 full days
  • Patience (the hole-cutting and filing and soldering can get tedious)
  • Decent soldering skills
  • Moderate level of experience with basic electronics
  • Help5


1 The Belkin Tetrahub is the best USB hub available as far as reliability and dependability when combining multiple USB 1.1 and 2.0 devices. Be sure to look for a newer model. The older model has a much larger and heavier power supply.

2 There are many, many, many serial to USB adapters out there but some work better than others. I've encountered a few that don't work with the Optec TCF-S and I know some don't work with Windows Vista. I've had the best luck with one from Micro Connectors available at Fry's (SKU #: 4959741, $19 each). It works fine with the Gemini, Robofocus, and TCF-S although I haven't tried it on Vista.

3 Inverters are easy to come by but there are some specific requirements I wanted to follow: (1) Post-type battery connectors so it can easily be swapped out if needed. (2) On/off switch so I can save a few milli-amps if the inverter isn't needed. (3) Low no-load current draw (0.25 amps or less). (4) Fan-less operation to keep noise down. The Coleman 400W inverter I'm currently using works well and meets these requirements except for the fan-less operation... so, I'm keeping an eye out for a similar inverter but with no fan (or at least a variable fan that only comes on when needed).

4 DC-to-DC voltage converters are easiest to come by as universal laptop power supplies for cars. Most of them come with multiple tips (although they're not needed if you hardwire it to the incoming voltage, like I did) and allow different voltage selections. Not everyone will need one of these. I wanted one specifically to power just the Gemini. Gemini-based mounts can act a little funny at 12v and usually run much better at 16-18v. I'm currently using this one at the 16v setting.

5 I'm fortunate in that my father is interested in astronomy, knows electronics inside and out, and has excellent soldering skills. I developed the basic idea, acquired the parts, and cut all of the holes in the box. He designed the schematics, did all of the wiring and soldering, and provided random parts that I forgot about. We make a good team.

DC AstroBox
Click an image below for a larger view.

Custom AstroBox
Construction of the DC AstroBox
Custom AstroBox
Power, serial, and USB ports
Custom AstroBox
All plugged in
Custom AstroBox
DC AstroBox from back
Custom AstroBox
Inside the DC AstroBox

AC AstroBox
Click an image below for a larger view.

Custom AstroBox
AC AstroBox from front left
Custom AstroBox
From front right
Custom AstroBox
Top lid open
Custom AstroBox
AC AstroBox from back